Sewing Your Custom Shirt

Fabric & Yardage

Fabric Recommendations

• Shirting Cotton – Crisp, easy to handle.
• Lightweight Denim/Chambray – Durable, casual.
• Light-Medium Linen – Breathable, hides small flaws.
• Lightweight Wool – Smooth, slightly structured.
• Silk – Luxurious, demands precise sewing.
• Rayon/Tencel – Drapey, hides minor imperfections.

Yardage Estimates

• Women's Shirt: ~2.0–2.5 yards (60" wide) or 2.25–2.75 yards (45" wide).
• Men's Shirt: ~2.5–3.0 yards (60" wide) or 2.75–3.25 yards (45" wide).
• Add ~0.5 yard if you need to match plaids/stripes or if you anticipate significant length alterations.

Needles & Seam Finishes

Needle Size Recommendations

• 60/8 or 65/9: Very lightweight (silk, voile).
• 70/10 or 75/11: Standard cotton shirting, linen.
• 80/12: Slightly heavier cotton, chambray.
• 90/14: Denim or thick fabrics.

Seam Finishes

1. French Seams – Fully encloses raw edges (best for delicate fabrics).
2. Flat-Felled Seams – Strong, topstitched (classic on denim/casual shirts).
3. Serged Seams – Quick with an overlocker; can also use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch.

Essential Tools & Notions

Getting Started

1. Assemble Your Materials - Gather fabric, pattern, interfacing, thread, pins, scissors, iron, etc.
2. Pre-Wash & Press - Launder/dry your fabric if machine-washable. Press thoroughly before cutting.

Cutting & Marking

1. Cutting Out Your Fabric
   • Lay fabric flat; fold for stable cotton or cut single-layer for slippery fabrics or when pattern matching.
   • Align pattern grainlines with the fabric's selvage and lay out to minimize fabric wastage.
   • Pin/weight carefully; cut out precisely, including seam allowances if not built into the pattern.
2. Marking
   • Transfer notches, darts, button placements, and placket slash lines from the pattern to the fabric.
   • Mark the wrong side if you can't easily distinguish it.

Preparing the Shirt Pieces

1. Interfacing Application
   • Fuse or baste interfacing to: 1 collar, 1 collar stand, both front plackets, 2 cuffs, and 2 sleeve plackets.
   • If fusible, press gently (~10-20 seconds) without sliding the iron.
2. Staystitching
   • Staystitch curved edges (neckline, shoulders, sleeve caps) ~3/8" from raw edge to prevent distortion.
3. Basting the Button Placket
   • Fold the front placket inward twice as indicated; press and baste.
4. Darts (If Pattern Includes Them)
   • Sew and press any shaping darts now.

How to sew the back yoke & shoulder seams (burrito method)

The burrito method encloses the raw shoulder seams inside your two yoke layers, yielding a neat, high-end finish. Don't be alarmed if it feels strange to roll up your shirt body—once you pull it all right side out, the "magic trick" of hidden seams becomes clear!

1. Layer the Yokes & Back
   • Lay the Shirt Back Right Side Up: Place your shirt back piece on a flat surface, right side facing up.
   • Place the Outer Yoke Right Side Down: Align the outer yoke's top edge with the shirt back's upper edge. Pin across that top seam.
   • Add the Inner Yoke Right Side Up: Lay the inner yoke over the back piece, so the back is sandwiched between the two yoke layers (outer yoke is down; inner yoke is up).
     • Match all three raw edges along the back's top curve.
     • Pin or clip in place.
2. Sew the Back Yoke Seam
   • Sew All Three Layers: Stitch across the top edge, securing the back piece between the outer and inner yokes.
   • Trim & Press:
     • Grade or trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk, then press both yokes upward and away from the back.
     • Optionally, topstitch about ¼" away from the seam on the right side.
3. Attach the Front Pieces to the Outer Yoke
   • Align Shoulder Seams:
     • Place shirt front pieces flat on your work surface, right sides up, center fronts together.
     • Place shirt back on top, right side down, matching shoulder seams.
     • Fold back the inner yoke and leave it free as you pin the outer yoke only to the shirt fronts.
   • Sew & Press: Sew along the shoulder seams, then press the seam allowances toward the yoke.
4. Roll the Shirt into a "Burrito"
   • Roll Up the Shirt Body: Gently roll the shirt back and fronts upward, toward the neckline, until the unsewn edge of the inner yoke is visible.
   • Wrap with the Inner Yoke: Bring the inner yoke up and over the rolled shirt body, pinning it at both the corresponding shoulder seams already sewn to the outer yoke. The rolled shirt is fully encased between the two yoke layers.
5. Sew & Turn Right Side Out
   • Sew the Shoulder Seams: Double-check the rolled shirt body is clear before sewing. Stitch across those pinned shoulders, enclosing the rolled shirt inside.
   • Reveal the Magic: Reach inside and pull the entire rolled section out through the neck opening, unrolling completely. The shoulder seams are now hidden between the yokes, giving a clean finish.
   • Final Press: Press the shoulder seams. If you like, topstitch along the yoke seams about ¼" from the edge to keep everything smooth.

Tip: If using thicker fabric, grade seams and press thoroughly.

That's it—your yoke is done, and all raw shoulder seams are neatly enclosed. Congratulations on mastering this clever "burrito" technique!

Sewing the Side Seams

Use one of three versions below for side and underarm seams. The rest of the shirt's construction order remains mostly the same—just follow your chosen seam instructions in whichever order you sew side/underarm seams.

VERSION A: FRENCH SEAMS

1. Wrong Sides Together
   • Pin side seams with wrong sides facing.
   • Sew at 3/8" (1 cm). Trim seam allowances to ~1/8" (3 mm). Press.
2. Second Pass
   • Flip to right sides together, sew at ¼" (6 mm), fully encasing raw edges.
   • Press seam toward the back.

(You'll do the same for underarm seams in Step 8.)

VERSION B: FLAT-FELLED SEAMS

1. Right Sides Together
   • Sew side seams at 5/8" (1.6 cm).
2. Trim & Fold
   • Trim one seam allowance to ¼" (6 mm).
   • Fold the wider allowance over the trimmed one, tucking under; topstitch near the fold.
   • Press seam toward the back.

(Again, apply the same approach for underarm seams in Step 8.)

VERSION C: SERGED SEAMS

1. Straight Stitch + Serge
   • With right sides together, sew side seams at 5/8".
   • Serge the raw edges together, trimming ~1/8". Press seam toward the back.

(Underarm seams in Step 8 follow the same method.)

Optional Refinement: Curved or Gusseted Side Seams

• Curved: Draft a gentle curve at the shirt's lower side seam. Sew carefully along that curve in your chosen finish.
• Gusset: Stop sewing ~1" above the hem, insert a triangular gusset piece to reinforce the seam.

Constructing the Collar & Collar Stand

1. Assemble the Collar
   • Pin collar pieces right sides together along outer edges.
   • Sew, leaving the neckline edge open.
   • Clip corners, turn right side out, press. Optional topstitch.
2. Attach Collar to Collar Stand
   • Pin the collar between two collar stand pieces (right sides together).
   • Sew the top curved edge, clip curves, turn, press, optionally topstitch.
3. Attach Collar Stand to Shirt
   • Pin outer stand to the neckline, sew, press allowances up.
   • Fold inner stand's raw edge under ~5/8", pin from right side, topstitch lower collar stand edge to enclose raw edges.
   • Final press.

Optional Refinement: Additional Collar Shaping ("Roll")

• Trim ~1/8" off the outer collar piece before assembly for a subtle roll under.

Optional Refinement: Extra Topstitching Lines

• After your main topstitch (~1/8"), add a second line ~1/4" away from the edge if desired.

Constructing the Sleeve Placket

This method is derived from the great sewing educator David Coffin Page who has a wonderful book on shirt making.

1. Orientation & Markings
   • Each sleeve's placket is located towards the back of the sleeve. For the right sleeve, the slash is on the left side; for the left sleeve, the slash is on the right side.
   • The tower (overlap) is the longer portion of the placket pattern that creates the "roof" or "house shape" at the top.
   • The binding (underlap) side is narrower.
   • Make sure that the slash line has been transferred to the wrong side of the sleeve.
2. Pre-Folding Tower (Overlap) Side
   • Fold and press 1/4" (6 mm) along each long edge of the tower portion.
   • At the top, fold small diagonal "roof" corners toward the center for a symmetrical peak. Press.
   • Lightly baste or use a small dab of basting glue/tape to keep these roof folds in place.
3. Binding (Underlap) Side
   • Fold and press 1/4" (6 mm) along the binding side's long outer edge.
   • Crease firmly so it's easier to fold later.
4. Placing & Sewing the Box
   • With the sleeve wrong side up, place the placket right side down over the slash line.
     • Ensure the tower side is closer to the center (overlap), and the binding side is closer to the back seam (underlap).
   • Sew a rectangular box around the slash line, pivoting at each corner.
   • Carefully slash up the center line to about 1/4" (6 mm) from the top, then cut small diagonal snips into each corner without clipping the stitching.
5. Turning & Shaping Each Side
   • Flip over, then pull each placket side through to the right side of the sleeve.
   • Press the seam allowances toward the placket.
6. Finishing the Binding (Underlap)
   • Fold the binding along its pre-pressed edge so it covers the raw slash edge.
   • Edgestitch or topstitch close to the fold from the right side. This is the underlap portion.
7. Finishing the Tower (Overlap)
   • Fold the tower side along its pre-pressed edges, including the "roof" at the top.
   • It should fully overlap the binding side and conceal the slash seam line.
   • Pin or baste if needed to keep the tower's shape.
8. Final Edgestitching & Tower Top
   • Edgestitch the tower side, starting from the cuff edge up toward the roof.
   • Pivot at the top peak if your pattern calls for a short horizontal stitch line or "mini box" to secure the roof.
   • Press thoroughly to set the folds.

Result:

• The tower (overlap) forms a distinctive peaked top on the right side of the sleeve.
• The binding (underlap) is narrower and lies neatly underneath, each side fully enclosing the slash.
• No puckers or raw edges should appear if you've clipped accurately and pressed carefully.

Sewing & Attaching Sleeves

1. Underarm Seam
   • Fold each sleeve right sides together, sew the underarm seams using your chosen finish (French, Flat-Felled, or Serged). Press.
2. Attach Sleeve to the Shirt
   • Turn shirt body inside out, sleeve right side out. Insert sleeve into armhole.
   • Match underarm seam to side seam, align notches. Distribute any ease in the sleeve cap.
   • Sew around the armscye. If you prefer a fancy armscye finish, do it now (trim & zigzag or partial flat-fell).
   • Press seam allowances toward the sleeve.

Constructing & Attaching the Shirt Cuffs

1. Prepare the Cuff Pieces
   • You have 2 cuff pieces for each of 2 cuffs: 1 interfaced (outer) + 1 non-interfaced (inner).
   • Pin right sides together, sew the top/short edges, clip corners, turn, press.
2. Sleeve Pleats (If In Pattern)
   • Fold any pleats at the sleeve edge toward the placket side, baste in place.
3. Attach Outer Cuff
   • Pin interfaced cuff to the sleeve, matching notches/placket edges.
   • Sew, grade seam allowances, press them upward.
4. Finish Inner Cuff
   • Fold inner cuff's raw edge under (5/8"), press.
   • Pin from right side, topstitch along cuff's lower edge, enclosing raw edges.
   • Give cuffs a final press.

Optional Refinement: Hand-Finished Cuff Facing

• Slipstitch the folded inner cuff edge by hand instead of machine topstitching for a bespoke, invisible finish inside.

Hemming the Shirt

With side seams and sleeves done, finalize the hem.

1. Staystitch Hem (3/8")
   • On the wrong side, sew a line of stitching ~3/8" from the raw edge to stabilize the curve.
2. Fold & Press
   • Turn the hem up along that line, press well.
3. Second Stitch & Trim
   • Sew another line ~1/8" from the fold; trim close to this stitching.
4. Fold & Stitch
   • Fold up again, fully enclosing raw edges.
   • Stitch near the inner fold from the right side. Press.

Buttonholes & Buttons

1. Mark Buttonholes
   • Typically 1 horizontal hole on the collar stand, plus vertical holes down the placket (8–10 total). You can use a buttonhole spacer to make this easy. Make sure to mark one buttonhole at the chest (especially on a woman's shirt).
   • Each cuff gets a buttonhole, and you may choose to put a buttonhole in the center of the tower overlap.
2. Sew Buttonholes
   • Use your machine's automatic buttonhole if available.
   • Carefully open with a seam ripper or button hole cutter, and apply Fray Check if desired.
3. Mark & Attach Buttons
   • Overlap plackets, poke a pin through each buttonhole to mark the under placket.
   • Sew buttons by hand or machine, leaving a small shank.
   • For cuffs, ensure the tower overlap is correct.

Troubleshooting & FAQ

1. Collar Twisting or Not Lying Flat
   • Cause: Corners/curves not clipped enough, or uneven seam allowance.
   • Fix: Trim corners diagonally, clip curves carefully, and press thoroughly with steam. Consider using a point turner for crisp corners.
2. Sleeve Placket Puckering
   • Cause: Slash not cut precisely into corners; tower/binding edges not pre-pressed accurately.
   • Fix: Slash exactly to the box corners (but not through them). Press folds beforehand. Use a dab of wash-away glue or wonder tape to hold folds in place before stitching.
3. Side Seams Don't Match at Hem
   • Cause: Cutting or seam allowances slightly off; possible grain misalignment.
   • Fix: Check that both front and back sides have identical seam allowances. If off, trim carefully near the bottom or re-sew if necessary.
4. Underarm or Sleeves Feeling Tight
   • Cause: Not enough ease in sleeve cap or inaccurate measurements (bicep, armhole depth).
   • Fix: Double-check your measurements, ensure you distributed sleeve cap ease evenly. If already sewn, consider letting out the seam allowance if possible.
5. Machine "Eating" Lightweight Fabric
   • Cause: Needle size too large, or starting too close to raw edge.
   • Fix: Use a smaller needle (size 60/8 or 65/9) and possibly a scrap of fabric "leader" behind the presser foot. Start sewing ~1/4" in from the edge.
6. Darts Not Aligning
   • Cause: Dart markings rubbed off or inaccurate.
   • Fix: Ensure your chalk or thread-traced dart lines are clearly visible. Sew from the wide end at underarm to the point. Press over a tailor's ham.
7. Collar Stand Too Short or Long
   • Cause: Possibly fabric stretching or incorrect seam allowances around neckline.
   • Fix: Staystitch the neckline to prevent distortion. Confirm you sewed with consistent seam allowances. If collar stand is too long, gently ease the neckline. If too short, check if the neckline was stretched.
8. Buttonholes Too Small or Large
   • Cause: Automatic settings might not match button diameter + thickness.
   • Fix: Measure button diameter + thickness before setting up your buttonhole function. Always test on scrap first. Apply Fray Check if your fabric frays easily.
9. Cuff Fit Off (Too Loose or Tight)
   • Cause: Wrist measurement or pleat depth incorrect.
   • Fix: Compare your final cuff circumference to your actual wrist measurement + wearing ease. Adjust pleat placement or button location if needed.
10. Topstitching Lines Wobbly
    • Cause: Sewing too quickly or no edge-stitch foot to guide.
    • Fix: Slow down, use an edge-stitch foot or mark the line with chalk. Practice on scraps to keep lines parallel, especially when adding a second row.

Ask a Question

Have any questions about these steps, fitting, or finishing techniques? Login to ericakochi.com, and select "Contact Support" from the menu to email us.

Congratulations & Final Press

Your custom long-sleeve shirt is complete! Give it a final press—especially the collar, cuffs, and plackets—to ensure a crisp, polished look.

Thank you for sewing with us. If you share your project on social media, tag us @ericakochi and #ericakochishirt so we can see your fabulous new shirt! Enjoy wearing (or gifting) your bespoke, refined, handmade garment.

Optional Refinements Throughout

• Additional Collar Shaping: Trim ~1/8" off the outer collar piece before assembly for a subtle roll under.
• Extra Topstitching Lines: After your main topstitch (~1/8"), add a second line ~1/4" away from the edge for a more refined look.
• Hand-Finished Cuff Facing: Slipstitch the folded inner cuff edge by hand instead of machine topstitching for a bespoke, invisible finish inside.
• Curved or Gusseted Side Seams: Draft a gentle curve at the shirt's lower side seam or add a triangular gusset piece to reinforce the seam.